"Cassiopeo" icefall - Val Lasties

Starting point of the tour
The top cable car station at Sass Pordoi (2950m)

End point of the tour
Pian Schiavaneis (1870m)

Summary
An icefall exposed to the sun in attractive surroundings in the heart of the Fassa Dolomites. Difficulty: II/5

Description
On this cold day at the end of January, we are travelling through the Val di Fassa towards Sass Pordoi...
For the second outing of the Wild White Winter tour we have chosen to climb ice in a very special context, among the towering walls of the Dolomites.
Here waterfalls often spring directly from the rock, along several narrow slits carved by water over thousands of years, so that when they turn into ice, they appear to be embedded in the wall...
One of the most beautiful flows of its kind can be found in the Val Lasties, in the Sella-Pordoi range. The first climbers renamed it “Cassiopeo”.
It is not very long but the splendour of its narrow form illuminated by the sun cannot but catch the eye “of passers-by”. And who passes by that way? ...we could ask...Actually, the Val Lasties is one of the most popular off-the-track routes in the area. In fact, every winter several hundreds of skiers use it, therefore they are frequently tempted to pass by and greet Cassiopeo.
This year, however, a lack of snow has made the valley silent, and while we head on foot towards the icefall, once again, we are amazed by the charm of this place...only our steps can be heard and the roar of the wind high up, which sprinkles the peaks all around with snow.
With our friends, we tackle the climb, which always proves to be fun, although tiring ...our axes bounce off the ice, which is as hard as marble due to the intense cold, but blow after blow, with a little patience we reach the peak.
Meanwhile, the shade arriving on the wall takes away the last bit of warmth, and tells us that it is time to return down the valley.
We descend under the impressive west wall of Sass Pordoi, where only a few months ago we climbed with our DoloMitiche adventures, and instinctively I wink at it, as if it were an old friend.
*We thank the following friends and mountain guides for their valuable assistance:
- Armando Grisenti
- Fabrizio Dellai
- Stefano Angelini

Directions
The first stretch is the most difficult (first a suspended icicle and then a vertical wall). It can be divided into 2 pitches of 25m (1st rest point on the right, 2nd rest point on the left), or tackled in one go. An easier step then takes us to the broad ledge, which leads us along a stretch on foot to the base of the last lengths (not always pre-formed). Here we pass under an enormous trapped boulder, into the gully on the right, and then tackle the last wall on the left. Then two abseils down (equipped with pegs).

Equipment
The usual ice climbing equipment.

Safety information
Avoid climbing the icefall on very cold days, as there is a risk of cracks in the first suspended icicle.
N.B. Double check the rest point pegs, which may be insecure in some cases. A variety of pegs may be useful.

Getting there
Option 1 – Go up the Val di Fassa and continue as far as Passo Pordoi. Take the cable car, and from the peak of Sass Pordoi go to the alpine pass of the same name. Along this stretch you can see the icefall and assess its condition (binoculars are useful). From the pass, go down into the Val Lasties (northwards). Where the valley sharply turns to the left, go along the flat stretch that takes you below the vertical wall of the icefall. From here, go up the last steep slope as far as the attack point. It takes 45 min. on skis (recommended with enough snow coverage) / 1.15h on foot.

Parking
Large car park at the cable car departure station (about 10 parking spaces)

Public transport
Not provided

Editoral Advice
“Ghiaccio Verticale” by Cappellari Francesco, published by Idea Montagna 2006

Further information/links
If you then decide to go down as far as Pian Schiavaneis, you will need another car to get back to Passo Pordoi. You can get to Località Lupo Bianco on skis and use the Sellaronda ski lifts to return to the pass.

Qualities

Author
Simone Agostini | created: 08.02.2012 | modified: 12.01.2013

Source
Visit Trentino
www.visittrentino.it