19th Outing: 31 August – Prigionieri di Bisanzio

Holiday Ideas

Travel information

Difficulty: 6B

Gradients: 300 m.

Travel time: 5h

Category: Mountaineering

Features: Challenging

Parete Sud-Est della Cima del Conte - Pale di S.Martino, tonadico

"Prigionieri di Bisanzio" ("Prisoners of Bysantium" --> Cima del Conte --> Pale di S.Martino
(length 300m / diff. 6B / opened by Manolo and P. Loss in 1981)

Maurizio Zanolla, art-name Manolo - and for all those who saw him climbing simply "the Wizard" - probably needs no introduction ... Suddenly appearing onto the climbing scene like a bolt from the blue, starting in the ‘70s he considerably helped revolutionise the evaluation standards, contributing with cutting-edge achievements to further extend the upper end of the difficulty scale and inaugurating the new sports climbing discipline. Even before establishing himself as a high difficulties figure, however, during the first "furious" seasons he left his mark on many Dolomites faces, freeing the old routes of their artificial features and opening many new ones, especially on the Pale di S.Martino...
Our idea was to repeat the much famous and mysterious Supermatita, but due to an unstable weather we gave up venturing on the 1,200 metres of the Sass Maor Eastern Face, and found ourselves trudging to Cima del Conte, a beautiful and little known needle dominating Val Canali.
Here we had a go at the "Prigionieri di Bisanzio" route which, as a fallback choice, proved to be more than appropriate: eight pitches on fabulous rock, literally riddled with tunnels, surrounded by the silence of the splendid Vallon delle Lede amphitheatre.

A gem well worth the long approach, a real temptation even for the laziest climbers!

Click here to open the technical report in pdf format

Access: from the village of Tonadico (Valle del Primiero) follow the signs to Val Canali, going beyond the Cant del Gal locality and up to the parking next to Malga Canali. From here continue on foot along the forest road and then along path 711 to the Minazio camp. Once in sight of Cima del Conte, turn around the base wall from right to left and follow a handy ledge that ends up right at the route's starting point. 2.30h from the parking.

Return: On the Western Face, over easy rocks (diff. 2-3). 0.30h

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