A trip to Caldes, on the banks of the river
Two days in Val di Sole, immersed in culture and open air activities
- 2 days
- March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October
- Art and Culture, Taste, Active holiday, Trekking and Hiking
A mountain village on the banks of the Noce River, surrounded by woods and apple orchards, and protected by an elegant castle. This is Caldes, in Val di Sole, which joined the list of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy in summer 2023. A point of reference in the village is the imposing silhouette of Castel Caldes, which now hosts important exhibitions and cultural activities.
So there is art and history, but also a great many opportunities to do open air activities such as excursions, bike rides, and rafting on the choppy waters of the river. If you want to indulge in a two-day break in nature, off the beaten track, Caldes is the place for you.
First day, morning: along the sentiero Val di Sole trail
Barely time to arrive and we are already off for a trip into nature. The route we recommend starts from Terzolas, the next town over from Caldes. This is an unusual excursion, because at a certain point you reach a choice.
The path splits into three different routes: one leads to the remains of fortifications from the Great War, the so-called “Trincee” (Trenches) of Bordiana and Bozzana; one leads to the “Sassias” climbing wall; and the last takes you to the Rocca di Samoclevo Fortress. Which will you take? It's your choice.
After your morning walk, now is the time to explore the village of Caldes. Before crossing the castle gate, you can make a stop at the Cemetery Church Chiesa cimiteriale di San Rocco, which houses an interesting wooden altar attributed to the workshop of Simone Lenner.
Right, now it is time to visit Castel Caldes!
If you are lucky, as well as the castle itself, you will also have the chance to visit one of the prestigious temporary exhibitions housed within its walls throughout the year. Otherwise, you can simply enjoy the castle in all its beauty. In particular, the frescoed ceilings, the stone spiral staircase that connects the castle's various floors, and the little chapel dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, built at the end of the 1500s.
Although what will certainly strike you the most is a little room with painted walls. According to legend, this was the prison of Olinda, daughter of Count Rodemondo, who was guilty of falling in love with the court minstrel, and for this was forced to live in captivity between these four walls. A tragic, romantic story that hangs in the air of the castle.
First day, evening: dinner at an agritourism restaurant
After a day packed with things to do and see, now it is time for a delicious dinner. We recommend this agritourism restaurant a few minutes from the village by car: it is called "Il Tempo delle Mele", and as soon as you walk in, you will smell the fragrance of the most famous fruit in Trentino.
Here, they make everything with apples: juices, cakes, jams, compotes, and also the seasoning for carne salada (cured beef), rice, roast meat, and alpine fish. They serve traditional Trentino dishes, with a focus on those from Val di Sole.
The best way to finish the first of your two days in Caldes.
After your walk on the first day, today is the day to get on your bike for a ride along the Val di Sole cycle path. A bike ride through meadows and pastures, along the banks of the Noce River, during which we recommend stopping to visit a few special places.
First of all, the Museo della Civiltà Solandra (Museum of Solandra Culture), an ecomuseum that collects cultural objects and tools as a record of the traditional activities of the population from Val di Sole. Or you can stop in the hamlets of Monclassico and Presson, famous for their artistic sundials. There are over 50 sundials, all different, enriched by information panels. An open air art gallery that is free to enjoy.
Since you are in Caldes, why not make the most of it and visit another of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy? This is Ossana, which is around twenty minutes from Caldes by car. You can make a visit to the Church of San Vigilio, the oldest in the upper Val di Sole, built starting in 1180, but most importantly, you can visit Castel San Michele, with its 25-metre-high fortified tower.
The castle, which dates from the Longobard period, is one of the four Trentino castles on the Trenino dei Castelli train tour, which crosses Val di Non and Val di Sole in the summer.
